Scott: Spark RC Team Issue TR - SALE

What caught my eye when I saw this bike on display is the sleek style of the carbon frame with the hidden, internally mounted, rear shock, the clean cable routing through the steerer/stem assembly and the Shimano XT M8100 brake set. The brakes are a favorite of mine which I use on all my cross country and trail bikes because they perform better than anything else in that price and weight range. However, at first glance, I was not impressed with the 3 stage suspension lock out feature. It’s a dual lever system that is perched on the handle bar right where I would normally put my dropper post lever. I like to use a dropper post for the long 4-5 mile steep descents in my area to avoid neck fatigue. While the bike does not come with a dropper post, I was advised by the sales person that one can certainly be installed. And there are smaller and more compact remote levers available for when handlebar real-estate is at a premium. The other thing I was questioning was, what is the rational for a 3 stage suspension lock out feature anyway? I was thinking to myself that I would never use it because I always ride with my fork, or rear shock, full open and unlocked. But I as it turns out I couldn’t have been more wrong. I took chance and bought it after a few parking lot test drives, and put it though it’s paces on my favorite 15 mile trail loop which has twisty tight rolling single track, long twisting and rocky descents and, steep loose and rocky climbs. There are many small to medium size bumps and loose dry surfaces throughout. I used the 3 stage lock out constantly throughout my ride. On the road I could choose to lock out the suspension fully, on the descents I have the suspension fully unlocked and on climbs or areas where the trail is smoother, and not so bumpy, I lock it in the second position. What is cool about this lever is that it simultaneously controls the lock out on the front and rear shock so they work in concert. Sometimes I would need the full 120mm travel and other times I would only need the 80mm travel. Or, no travel at all if I’m riding the asphalt road to the trailhead. So I would have to say that after using the 3 stage lockout while riding off road, that it is probably the single most necessary item on the entire bike. It makes the bike what it is. It can go fast, climb great, and handle steep bumpy rocking descents, and twisty up and down single track superbly. I would recommend this bike to anyone who wants a high performance mountain bike capable of racing (yes it is fast) or just having fun trail riding. But there are a couple of things that, as it turns out, are considered pain points for me. I list them for you: The front chain ring is a 32t. With the 10-51 cassette in back a 34t is a much better choice. They do fit, so swap that out before you take the bike home. The rear brake pads (due to the position of the caliper on the frame) are not easily replaceable. You will need to unmount the caliper just to get to the brake pad fixing bolt. I go through brake pads fast, and that is a lot of loosening and tightening of the caliper on the rear stay mounts. A medium frame (I bought this) has two water bottle mounts but you’ll need a tiny water bottle to fit on the seat tube mounted cage. Get a side mount cage and some frame saver 3M film to put underneath the top tube where the bottle spout will constantly rub. The owners manual is not very through. It does explain how to reverse the headset cups to give the bike a 0.6 degree slacker steerer angle but it does not tell you, which position is which. As it turns out, the mark on the top cup facing forward and visa versa on the bottom cup is the steep position. The manual does not tell you this. The steep position is the stock setting, and my favorite, for fast nimble riding. As mentioned before, the dropper post lever position and post type need to be carefully considered. While we are on the subject of seat posts, be ready with a hacksaw and a file because the 400mm stock seat post does not go down far enough if your inseam is shorter than 32 inches. Best to just get a shorter post, or dropper post that will fit. Be careful because a lot of dropper posts with a 31.6 diameter come 400mm or longer. Unless you have very small hands, be prepared to ditch the I-Spec clamp for the 3 Stage remote lever and get a separate clamp so you can move the lever further to the right. With the I-Spec clamp, even if it is adjusted as far to the right as possible, the lever especially in the middle position, will poke into the side of your thumb when you are riding. The handle bars are very heavy, so consider putting on a lighter pair. I opted for carbon bars and a Thomson Masterpiece 375mm seat post. The headset cage ( which the outer cover snaps onto) is a single piece and gets in the way when re-routing the rear brake cable to the left side for left lever = rear brake operation, or when inserting a dropper post cable because it reduces the usable working length with the stem is removed and spacers are removed. If cage was a two piece that would unsnap, then it would facilitate cable routing. It’s not a long list and it’s not a deal breaker. I would say the price is excellent. For example it is priced between the Specialized Epic Expert Evo and an Epic Comp Evo. If you add carbon wheels and a dropper post it’ll be in the Epic Expert price category. As far as the tires and wheels go, I can’t comment on these because I left them at the bike store. I upgraded the wheel set and added my favorite tires which work best for me. I applied some 3M clear film under the down tube, the stays and the rear set tube area for protection of the frame. Now go out and ride!